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内容摘要:本文阐明了中西方服饰文化的特征,对中西方服装在衣料文化、功能意识、着装观念、着装方式、变迁过程方面的不同点进行深入探讨,并从社会功能、审美功能、容仪功能、形态构成、实用功能等方面分析了中西方服饰文化的共同点。本文认为,当下中国的服饰发展应在努力学习西方先进科技和文化的同时,珍视本民族的独创文化,从而将之改良成为东西方人都可以接受的新东方艺术,使中国服饰登上世界舞台。
关键词:中国西方服饰文化比较
引子
从逻辑上看,“中国”和“西方”是两个不同层面的概念,前者是一个具体的国度,而后者则是一个方位。一般应该是“中国”与“法国”或“意大利”的文化比较,或者是“东方”与“西方”文化的比较才合逻辑。那么,为什么要把这样两个不同层面的概念放在一起进行比较研究呢?因为这里的“西方”是与后面的“服饰文化”紧密相连的一个概念,即“西方服饰文化”,是指以地中海文明为基础,欧洲中世纪以来发展形成的基督教文化圈中的服饰文化。本课题就是把这个对当今世界服饰文化具有重要影响的服饰文化同以黄河文明为基础形成的中国文化圈中的服饰文化进行比较研究。这里排除了伊斯兰文化圈和印度文化圈。
东西方服饰文化在相当长的历史时期内,在相对独立的社会环境中,各自形成了自己的服饰体系。时至今日,随着经济的不断发展,科技的不断进步,世界经济贸易的全球一体化带来了生活方式的同质化。服饰潮流也在这一大趋势下日益“趋同”。西方人对中国这条东方巨龙的崛起刮目相看,尤其是西方的服装设计师在推出的新作当中不断导入中国服饰文化元素。透过这些表象,不禁引起人们一连串的深思:中国服饰文化与西方服饰文化到底有哪些不同?这两种文化有无相似或相同的地方?未来中国人的服饰将以“国际化”的西方服饰文化为主流,还是以中国本土的服饰文化为主流?或是两者的融合?
要弄清这些问题,恐怕只有在对这两种文化进行深入研究的基础上,比较各自的性格特征和发展变迁过程,从中总结出某些规律,才能得到答案。
一、 中西方服饰文化的特征概述
要想比较中西方服饰文化的区别,就应先弄清中国文化与西方文化的特征。
1.中、西方文化的特征
从地理环境上看,中国文化起源于黄河文明,是在一个相对固定而且封闭的地域环境中发展形成的.自古以来,儒家思想、道家哲学、佛教、伊斯兰教以及基督教文化都曾在这块热土上相互碰撞、交流和融会贯通,共同形成了以含蓄、包容为特征的中国文化,加上漫长的封建社会政治体制的统治,构筑起高度发达的文化体系。
与此相对,西方文化是以围绕着地中海的北非的尼罗河文明、西亚的两河流域文明、爱琴文明以及南欧的古希腊、古罗马文明为基础,经过来自北方的日耳曼民族大迁徙而形成的。 西欧诸国经过在中世纪的发展和拜占庭文化的滋养,特别是基督教文化的发展,从而形成与远东的中国完全不同的基督教文化圈。在这个文化圈中生存着众多的种族,存在着性格不同的文化,这些文化之间相互碰撞、交流和融合,形成了一种跃动的、积极进取的性格特色。
中国文化与西方文化相比,前者是在一个相对固定的地域环境中发展繁荣起来的,具有相对单一而鲜明的个性特色,属个体发生性质;后者则跨越亚、非、欧三大洲,在一个广阔的地域环境中,由多种文明相互混合,交替支配和影响,伴随着民族的迁徙、文化的移动而形成的,具有混合性特色,属系统发生性质。
2. 中、西方服饰文化特性
在上述两种完全不同的文化体系中,作为其组成部分的服饰文化,必然也表现出明显的差异。
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