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Question

中世纪的服饰系列--拜占廷

西罗马帝国崩溃以后，欧洲的文明进入了一个黑暗时期。这一期间的欧洲服饰乏善可陈，唯一的例外拜占廷帝国。在中世纪的早期，拜占廷成为欧洲服装的流行中心。

六世纪时期拜占廷服装文化的特色是大量使用丝织品（拜占廷通过丝绸之路从中国大量进口 原丝和普通丝织物，然后再重新加工染整，成为风行欧洲的奢侈品），刺绣和以麻为经线、羊毛为纬线的织锦。纺织品有浓厚的东方色彩并掺杂着大量基督教内容。诸如圆象征无穷、羊象征基督、鸽子象征神圣的精神；色彩也被赋予了宗教含义：白色－－纯洁；蓝色－－神圣；紫色－－威严；绿色－－青春；金色－－善行等等。

拜占廷时期的男女服装样式差别不大，因此以下这三种服装都是男女通用的，仅在裁剪和服装装饰上有细节上的区分。

最常见的贵族穿着是dalmatica，其实早期这是种很简单的服装，几乎为桶形，并有两根被称为clavi的条带式装饰。后来衣袖的形状有所增加，直桶形的躯乾部分也采用了腰带。并配以突厥式样的外套。外套下贴身穿着的一般是tunica。

tunica是从东方民族传入的一种服装，它并不是专门的内衣，也可以当成外套使用（当时好象这方面区分并不严格）。一般是毛织物，长度抵膝上，躯乾系带。袖子长而细。当用做内衣穿着时候一般是白色。 <BR> 皇族和大贵族的正式外套则是paludamentum，此种外衣的特点是宽大且不显露身体线条。其裁剪的样式可能是将一块长方形织物的两角斜裁成梯形，穿着时披在左肩上，在右肩系带。paludamentum的色彩灿烂辉煌（皇帝和女皇可用紫色），大量使用宝石和绣金工艺，不能算是一种常服。因此往往paludamentum里面还穿dalmatica或者tunica。

以查士丁尼皇帝的像为说明：其paludamentum采用紫色衣面（应为丝织品），里子采用另一种颜色。在paludamentum的前后左右均有特别装饰，此种装饰被称为塔布利恩。是拜占廷帝国特有的高贵的标志。这件paludamentum的塔布利恩图案是金色底子上刺绣着有红圆圈的鸟的排列。

女性穿着的paludamentum以提奥多拉皇后的像为例：同样的紫色面料的paludamentum，衣襟里表都采用金线装饰，领下使用宝石装饰。外套下面穿着白色dalmatica，襟和袖口有金和绿宝石装饰。 <BR> 所谓paludamentum是特殊阶层的穿着，普通人一般穿着paenula，这是一种厚呢绒布制的圆形套头式衣服。在中世纪的圣像画上很常见。

Answer 1

Medieval clothing Series - Byzantine

After the collapse of the Western Roman Empire, European civilization has entered a dark period. Little to the European dress during this period, the only exception to the Byzantine Empire. In the early Middle Ages, Byzantine popular European clothing center.

During the sixth century Byzantine clothing culture is characterized by extensive use of silk (Byzantine through the Silk Road from China, import large quantities of raw silk and silk fabrics common, and then re-dyeing and finishing process to become popular in Europe's luxury goods), embroidery and hemp for the warp and wool for the weft of the tapestry. Textiles has a strong oriental flavor, and mixed with a large number of Christian content. Such as the circle symbolizes infinity, sheep and a symbol of Christ, the dove a symbol of the holy spirit; colors have also been given a religious meaning: White - purity; blue - divine; Purple - prestige; Green - Youth; gold - good deeds, etc. .

Byzantine period, little difference between men and women clothing styles, so the following three garments are unisex, and only in the cutting and garment decoration on the details of distinction.

The most common is the nobility dressed dalmatica, early in fact it is very simple kinds of clothing, almost barrel, and have two bands known as the clavi style decoration. Later, an increase in the shape of sleeves, straight barrel part of the trunk also used the belt. Turkic-cum-style jacket. Coat is usually worn next to the skin under the tunica.

tunica is the oriental nation imported from a garment, it is not specialized underwear can also be used as a jacket (at the time as if this distinction is not strict). Are generally wool fabric, the length arrived lap, trunk tie. Sleeves long and thin. When used as the time is usually dressed in white underwear. <BR> Royalty and great nobles of the formal jacket is paludamentum, this coat is characterized by large and does not reveal the body lines. Its style may be to cut a rectangular piece of fabric into the corners Xiecai ladder, wearing a Phi in the left shoulder, when, in the right shoulder tie. paludamentum brilliant colors (purple emperor and the Queen are available), extensive use of precious stones and gold embroidery techniques, can not be regarded as a negligee. So often paludamentum which even wearing dalmatica or tunica.

In order to illustrate the image of the Emperor Justinian: its use of purple clothing paludamentum surface (should be silk), where the child uses a different color. In paludamentum have special decorations around the front and rear, such decoration is called Tabulien. Byzantine Empire is the unique symbol of nobility. This pattern is paludamentum the Tabulien grounding on the golden embroidered red circle with the arrangement of birds.

Women's wear paludamentum to the image of Queen Theodora as an example: the same purple fabric paludamentum, skirts where tables are decorated with gold thread, lead to use decorative stones. Wearing a white coat following dalmatica, lapel and cuffs decorated with gold and emeralds. The so-called paludamentum is a special class <BR> dress, an ordinary person wearing paenula, then it is a thick flannel round the system of hedging style clothes. Icon painting in the Middle Ages are common.